The “French New Wave” and “The New Look” in France from late 47 to early 60’s was updated by Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior to rave reviews!

The stage was a beautiful flow of fantasy fabrics hanging, draped over teardrop and undulating forms by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. If you haven’t discovered Vasconcelos large scale installations, you’ll be colored with joy and wonder when you do! This colorful, floral realm was complimented by the recordings of Edith Piaf and Bjork.

Chiuri made use of the New Wave edge of square, narrow ties and women’s trousers counter-balanced with layered geometrical jackets and plaid jumpers paired with long skirts. Subtle plaid patterns with rich, deep colors and black! Parisians are known for two main looks that stand it apart. Black on black, juxtaposed by flowers blooming in Spring in the French capitol. And that’s exactly what we had, small, realistic flowers on black ‘bra’ tops, at times behind sheer and transparent blouses.  Floral color feminized punk toughness.

The Models had small, delicate faces strengthened by smokey eyes and the geometry of the 1960’s. Some Jackets had a curved geometrical line from shoulder to arm that will be copied all the way down to the high street. This reminded me of the curve of the exaggerated pushing out form the narrow waistline of the signature, archival Dior of the late 40’s and early 50’s. I love this shape.  Long pleated skirts paired with short, geometrical jackets, or long Plaid coats.

The hair on the Models drew from Josephine Baker, and the smokey eyes as well (of course updated to the 60’s and now). Black hair bands over slicked  hair, or shorter hair Twiggy style, framing the face with angle and edge. Long black gloves were also incorporated into strapless dresses.

If I could have chosen only 1 Collection to see in the Paris, Dior might be it.